Città di Luino Bivouac

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Città di Luino Bivouac
Bivacco Città di Luino (it)

Photo of the Città di Luino Bivouac
Città di Luino Bivouac

Elevation 3,562 m11,686.352 ft
2.213 miles
Type CAI
Location Piemonte, Italy
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Monte Rosa
Sponsored Links

DMS Coor. 45°59´48"N, 7°54´37"E
Swiss Coor. 636541 / 94010
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Adler Glacier, Adlerhorn, Adlerpass, Eugenio Sella Hut, Fluchthorn, Rimpfischhorn, Schwarzberg Weisstor, Strahlhorn
Alpinist's Info
Base(s) Macugnaga, Saas Fee
Summit(s) Cima di Jazzi, Strahlhorn
Topo. Map SLK 1348: Zermatt
Approach Difficulty Rating PD PD
Hut Info
Places 9
Guarded always unguarded
Catering No drinks and No food
Tel. 0039 (0)332 53 47 00 (info)
0039 (0)332 51 11 01 (info)
Città di Luino Bivouac (Italy )
Città di Luino Bivouac
Città di Luino Bivouac
>> European Alps > Western European Alps > Pennine Alps > Monte Rosa > Città di Luino Bivouac


[edit] General information

The Città di Luino Bivouac (Italian: Bivacco Città di Luino) (3,562 m) is a mountain bivouac hut above Macugnaga in the Pennine Alps in Italy. It's a small, yellow painted metal bivouac hut with a wooden interior wonderfully situated close to the crest on the Italian side of the E ridge of the Schwarzberghorn (Pt. 3,609 m) 100 m from the summit. Worthy of a visit in its own right. The hut responsible is Claudio Schranz. (Tel: 0039 (0)324 656 09)

[edit] Accommodation

8 places.

Kitchen utensils and gas stove available. No water available nearby, only snow.

[edit] Approach Route

Follow a marked route from its E side up the rocks above the hut. Move R on the glacier and climb steeply up to the snow shoulder SSE of Pt. 3,639 m. A more interesting way is to keep to the rocks all the way. This involves climbing a small chimney (II+) and some pleasant scrambling to reach the snow shoulder. Above the shoulder is a band of rock about 100 m high. Start climbing this by a small couloir on the R for a few m then follow a ramp Lwards until it is possible to get on to another, higher ramp which is followed for 20 m to the bottom of another small couloir. Climb this (II) to a small terrace on the R then slant L up a slab (II+) to a final small terrace which gives easy access to the crest of the ridge at the Passi Jacchini (3,520 m) (1,5h). Head N on the Swiss side, descend slightly, and contour at 3,500 m until below Pt. 3,609 m (Schwarzberghorn). Climb snow slopes to the crest then contour across the S side to reach the E ridge a little above the hut which is on the Italian side of the ridge. (2,5h in total)

Follow a marked path, at first N then W, which leads , on the S side of Monte Moro, to Pt. 2,906 m on the ridge crest. Move on to the Swiss side and follow scree and névé to a rock band which is crossed to give access to the Seewijnen Glacier. Almost immediately climb a steep slope on the N side of the Seewijnenhorn and then contour the glacier slopes below the Rothorn before slanting up to reach the crest of the frontier ridge close to the summit of the Steinchalchhorn (3,333 m). Continue on the crest past Pt. 3,345 m to reach the Steinchalchlücke (3,360 m) which is marked with a pole and is at the foot of the steep rise to the E summit of the Roffelhorn (3,478 m). From here contour round the Roffelhörner on the N side and regain the crest of the ridge at Pt. 3,517 m (some crevasses) or a little higher towards Pt. 3,609 m (Schwarzberghorn). Follow the snowy crest to the hut.

Take the R fork on the track on the W side of the reservoir to Schwarzbergalp. A path leads off L to Chäste, take this path to Pt. 2,693 m and then continue along the crest of the moraine to a height of 2,800 m. Move on to the glacier and climb it to reach the crest of the frontier ridge at or W of Pt. 3,517 m. Go up the ridge to the hut.

Head E past two small lakes and then follow the moraine crest for a further km before getting onto the Findel Glacier. Continue on the R bank of the glacier to below the Strahlchnubel. Pass a difficult crevassed part of the glacier and, still on the R bank, reach the S foot of the Adlerhorn above some large crevasses. Now head out further on to the glacier towards Pt. 3,321 m and in roughly the same line reach the Neues WEisstor or join the route from the Monte Moropass above at the snow slope leading to the crest. From the former, traverse Pt. 3,609 m (Schwarzberghorn) and descend the E ridge to the hut.

[edit] Ascents

[edit] Crossings

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