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Photo of the Aletschhorn
Aletschhorn from Mönchsjoch Hut

Elevation 4,192 m13,753.281 ft
2.605 miles
Prominence 1,017 m0.632 miles
3,336.614 ft
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Bernese Alps
Massif Aletschhorn Group
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DMS Coor. 46°27´55"N, 7°59´37"E
Swiss Coor. 642638 / 146128
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Aletschhorn Group, Dreieckhorn, Grosser Aletschfirn, Hollandia Hut, Lötschenlücke, Mittelaletsch Bivouac
Alpinist's Info
Base(s) Betten, Fiesch, Riederalp
Hut(s) Mittelaletsch Bivouac, Oberaletsch Hut
Topo. Map SLK 1269: Aletschgletscher
Easiest Route Rating PD PD
Aletschhorn (Switzerland )


[edit] General information

The Aletschhorn (4,192 m13,753.281 ft
2.605 miles
) is a mountain in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland, it lies within the Jungfrau-Aletsch-Bietschhorn region, which has been designated by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. The mountain shares its name with the Aletsch Glacier lying at its foot.

[edit] Geography

After the Finsteraarhorn it is the second highest peak in the Bernese Alps. On its northern flank lies the Aletschfirn, which is part of the Aletsch Glacier. On the south west lies the Oberaletsch Glacier and, on the south, lies the Mittelaletsch Glacier. Both are in the catchment area of the Massa river, which originates in the Aletsch Glacier and ends up in the Rhône river. Its remote location in the middle of glaciers make the Aletschhorn, despite its height, less known than the summits of Jungfrau and Eiger which lie about 10 km on the north.

[edit] Climbing history

Aletschhorn from top of Mönch

The Aletschhorn was climbed almost 50 years after the Jungfrau. In fact when the summit of the Jungfrau was conquered, the climbers used base camps on the Grosser Aletschfirn, at the foot of the Aletschhorn.

The mountain was climbed first in 1859 by Francis Fox Tuckett, J. J. Bennen, V. Tairraz and P. Bohren. On 18 June, they started the ascent from the Mittelaletsch Glacier (on the south side). Like many other climbers, Tuckett took with him a barometer and made scientific observations. He noted the icy temperature and the very strong wind, blowing the snow and threating to knock over the climbers.

After they reached the summit, Tuckett separated from Bennen and descended on the north face with Bohren and Tairraz. He wanted to reach directly the valley of Lötschental, but soon after they began the descent, an avalanche started right under the feet of the climbers. They cautiously went back and descended on the Mittelaletsch Glacier.

[edit] Routes

[edit] North-East Ridge (PD+)

Aletschhorn: North-East Ridge (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Aletschhorn (4,192 m2.605 miles
13,753.281 ft
Valley base(s) Betten, Fiesch
Route Type Snow and Rock (5 - 7 h) Hut Mittelaletsch Bivouac (3,013 m1.872 miles
9,885.171 ft
Difficulty Rating PD+ PD+ Difficulty
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1179 m0.733 miles
3,868.11 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1269: Aletschgletscher (Maps)

From the Mittelaletsch Bivouac, head north-west up over crevassed Mittelaletsch Glacier and the neve above to the Alestchjoch (3,629 m). From here west over the corniced ridge to P. 3718(connecting the famous Hassler Rib). Over the broad snow slope to the P. 4087 (pre summit). Further over the short steep slope, crossing a bergschrund and finally an exposed rock and snow rigde(NW) to the top.

[edit] South-West Ridge (PD+)

Aletschhorn: South-West Ridge (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Aletschhorn (4,192 m2.605 miles
13,753.281 ft
Valley base(s) Riederalp (1,905 m1.184 miles
6,250 ft
Route Type Snow and Rock (7 - 8 h) Hut Oberaletsch Hut (2,640 m1.64 miles
8,661.417 ft
Difficulty Rating PD+ PD+ Difficulty
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1552 m0.964 miles
5,091.864 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 735 m0.457 miles
2,411.417 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2287 m1.421 miles
7,503.281 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1269: Aletschgletscher (Maps)

[edit] Overview

Route Name Hei. Dif. Dur. (h) Type Rock ° Valley Hut S. Gain Maps
Aletschhorn: North-East Ridge 4,192 m2.605 miles
13,753.281 ft
EPD+ 5-7 Snow and Rock Betten, Fiesch Mittelaletsch Bivouac 1,179 m0.733 miles
3,868.11 ft
Aletschhorn: South-West Ridge 4,192 m2.605 miles
13,753.281 ft
EPD+ 7-8 Snow and Rock Riederalp Oberaletsch Hut 1,552 m0.964 miles
5,091.864 ft

Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.

[edit] Additional Photos

[edit] Recommended Books

      The Swiss Alps (Cicerone Guide) by Kev Reynolds

      The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke

      Bernese Oberland: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin

      Bernese Oberland East: Interlaken - Grindelwald - Meiringen (Rother Walking Guide) by Daniel Anker

      The Bernese Alps: A Walker's Guide (Cicerone Guide) by Kev Reynolds

  • You can click the images to get a bigger image of the front cover!
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