Allalinhorn

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Allalinhorn

Photo of the Allalinhorn
The Allalinhorn covered in snow

General
Elevation 4,027 m13,211.942 ft
2.502 miles
Prominence 245 m0.152 miles
803.806 ft
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Mischabel
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Coordinates
DMS Coor. 46°2´50"N, 7°53´50"E
Swiss Coor. 635497 / 99624
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Allalinpass, Alphubel, Alphubeljoch, Britannia Hut, Fee Glacier, Feechopf, Feejoch, Fluchthorn, Kleines Allalin, Mittelallalin, Mittelallalin Station, Rimpfischhorn
Alpinist's Info
Topo. Map SLK 1328: Randa
Easiest Route Rating F F
Map
Allalinhorn (Switzerland )
Allalinhorn
Allalinhorn
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Contents

General information

The Allalinhorn (4,027 m13,211.942 ft
2.502 miles
) is a mountain in the Mischabel group of the Pennine Alps in Switzerland. It lies west of Saas Fee in the canton of Valais. The mountain is situated between the Strahlhorn and the Rimpfischhorn in the south and Alphubel and Dom in the north.

It was first climbed by London barrister Edward Levi Ames, the clergyman Johann Joseph Imseng, another member of the Imseng family and Johann's manservant Franz-Josef Andenmatten on 28 August 1856.

The N flank is predominantly of snow and ice, rising above the Fee and Hohlaub glaciers which are separated by the peak's NE ridge. The long ENE or Hohlaubgrat bounds the S side of the glacier of that name and presents one of the finer ascent routes of the mountain. The S side of the mountain is of little interest, the rock being of poor quality, but this is terminated in the W side by the SW ridge which provides an easy means of access to the summit from the Allalinpass. A short ridge connects the Feejoch to the summit and forms the final section of the normal route.

It is the easiest and most popular 4000-meter peak in the area. Climbers can ride up to the Mittelallalin at 3,500m; from here there are only about 500 vertical metres to tackle. From the underground railway station at Mittelallalin, the Allalinhorn can be an easy 4000 meter summit, but there is still objective danger from crevasses and the weather, and the temptation to bag it without proper preparation or acclimatization makes it particularly risky for inexperienced parties.

The many lifts and noisy piste-making vehicles have turned this beautiful mountain into an undesirable alpinism mountain. For this reason many people prefer to climb the mountain via the Hohlaub Glacier requiring an overnight stay.

Routes

West-North-West Ridge

From Mittelallalin (F)

SidCrward,Eome Rodri, anch'io sono curioso di vedere se Sertes porrà davvero una certa domanda a MM, come ieri sembrava risoluto a fare. Resto in attesa di sviluppi.La domanda in questione è alla fine del video della seconda parte delle domande.

#1: WNW Ridge routes

This easy route has only one objective danger: skiers... watch out for descending skiers on your ascent! No overnight stop is required if you start your ascent from Mittelallalin.

Starting in Saas Fee, you can reach Mittelallalin via a series of lifts and railways. From Mittelallalin, cross the pistes heading SW of the prominent spur on the initially steep glacier and then head up to Feejoch (3,826m). Do NOT take a direct line because you will cross a severely crevassed section of the glacier. Be sure to curb around this crevassed area by heading SW instead of heading S. It takes only 1h to reach this point.

Follow the ridge in the direction of the summit (ESE) up easy snow slopes to a point just S of the summit. Reach the summit itself by passing beyond it on the S side and approaching it from the E up a short snow/ice rib. This route should 'circle' you around the summit to avoid steep and crevassed passages (see photo #1 and #2). From Feejoch it takes 45 minutes to reach the summit.

From Britannia Hut (PD)

SidCrward,Eome Rodri, anch'io sono curioso di vedere se Sertes porrà davvero una certa domanda a MM, come ieri sembrava risoluto a fare. Resto in attesa di sviluppi.La domanda in questione è alla fine del video della seconda parte delle domande.

#2: Topography of the WNW Ridge routes

From the Britannia Hut descend the path on to the Hohlaub Glacier. Climb the bank of the glacier close to the Hinter Allalingrat, passing below Pt.3,249m (Hinter Allalinpass). Continue SW, passing below Mittelallalin, until you see a small snow saddle on the right side. Climb to this saddle (3,597m) via a narrow couloir (2-3h). From this saddle traverse on to the Fee Glacier and join the track from Mittelallalin.

Head up to Feejoch (3,826m). Do NOT take a direct line because you will cross a severely crevassed section of the glacier. Be sure to curb around this crevassed area by heading SW instead of heading S. Calculate 1h to for the piece between the saddle and Feejoch.

Starting at Feejoch, follow the ridge in the direction of the summit (ESE) up easy snow slopes to a point just S of the summit. Reach the summit itself by passing beyond it on the S side and approaching it from the E up a short snow/ice rib. This route should 'circle' you around the summit to avoid steep and crevassed passages (photo #1 and #2). From Feejoch it takes 45 minutes to reach the summit.

From Längflue (PD)

SidCrward,Eome Rodri, anch'io sono curioso di vedere se Sertes porrà davvero una certa domanda a MM, come ieri sembrava risoluto a fare. Resto in attesa di sviluppi.La domanda in questione è alla fine del video della seconda parte delle domande. From Längflue climb S up the Fee Glacier (ski pistes and machine tracks) keeping well E of Pt.3,179m. Eventually join the track coming from Mittelallalin to reach Feejoch. Crossing the distance on the glacier takes about 3h.

Head up to Feejoch (3,826m). Do NOT take a direct line because you will cross a severely crevassed section of the glacier. Be sure to curb around this crevassed area by heading SW instead of heading S. Calculate 1h for the piece between the saddle and Feejoch.

Starting at Feejoch, follow the ridge in the direction of the summit (ESE) up easy snow slopes to a point just S of the summit. Reach the summit itself by passing beyond it on the S side and approaching it from the E up a short snow/ice rib. This route should 'circle' you around the summit to avoid steep and crevassed passages (see photo #1 and #2). From Feejoch it takes 45 minutes to reach the summit.

From Täsch Hut (PD)

SidCrward,Eome Rodri, anch'io sono curioso di vedere se Sertes porrà davvero una certa domanda a MM, come ieri sembrava risoluto a fare. Resto in attesa di sviluppi.La domanda in questione è alla fine del video della seconda parte delle domande.

#3: Approach of Feechopf coming from the Täsch Hut. Follow the river upstream, continue on the glacier and turn to the summit just before Alphubeljoch.

From the Täsch Hut follow the route to the Alphubeljoch. Follow the river upstream until you meet the S branch of the Alphubel Glacier at an altitude of 3,200m. Climb SE up the glacier then, at a height of 3,400m, turn E to pass Pt.3,510m on your left side and reach the pass via easy angled slopes (see photo #3).

From Alphubeljoch, climb easy snow slopes SE to the summit of the Feechopf (3,888m), passing on the N side of the snow dome of Pt.3,846m. From the summit climb down the ESE Ridge over rock (II) and snow to the Feejoch. This approach takes 4h.

Starting at Feejoch, follow the ridge in the direction of the summit (ESE) up easy snow slopes to a point just S of the summit. Reach the summit itself by passing beyond it on the S side and approaching it from the E up a short snow/ice rib. This route should 'circle' you around the summit to avoid steep and crevassed passages (see photo #1 and #2). From Feejoch it takes 45 minutes to reach the summit.

Your cranuim must be protecting some very valuable brains.

East-North-East Ridge - Hohlaubgrat (AD)

SidCrward,Eome Rodri, anch'io sono curioso di vedere se Sertes porrà davvero una certa domanda a MM, come ieri sembrava risoluto a fare. Resto in attesa di sviluppi.La domanda in questione è alla fine del video della seconda parte delle domande.

#6: Final section of the Hohlaubgrat route leading to the summit

From the Britannia Hut descend the path on to the Hohlaub Glacier. Climb the N bank of the glacier to a height of 3,050m. Once you reach this point, cross the glacier, heading SW to gain the broad, lower part of the ridge. Climb this, crossing a few crevasses to a snow dome at an altitude of 3,530m. Make a short descend to a snow saddle and then continue up the ridge to pass N of Pt.3,837m (see photo #7). The ridge levels off for a while and then steepens to the rock barrier barring access to the summit slopes. Climb the broken (loose) rocks by a line slanting up right to reach the final easy snow slope leading to the summit (see photo #6).

This route is almost entirely on snow except for the final rock section just below the summit which accounts for the grade. This final rock step takes some time to climb, but starting in the Britannia Hut the route shouldn't take longer than 5h.

North-East Ridge - Hinter Allalingrat (AD+)

SidCrward,Eome Rodri, anch'io sono curioso di vedere se Sertes porrà davvero una certa domanda a MM, come ieri sembrava risoluto a fare. Resto in attesa di sviluppi.La domanda in questione è alla fine del video della seconda parte delle domande.

#7: Overview of the more difficult ascents of the Allalinhorn

From the Britannia Hut descend the path on to the Hohlaub Glacier. Climb the bank of the glacier close to the Hinter Allalingrat, passing below Pt.3,249m (Hinter Allalinpass). Continue SW, passing below Mittelallalin, until you see a small snow saddle on the right side. Climb to this saddle (3,597m) via a narrow couloir (2-3h).

From this saddle, go to the foot of the steep slopes. Head for a direct route to the summit via steep slopes (50°). The bergschrund is often wide and impossible to cross directly. To overcome this, make a traverse to the right side across steep and exposed slopes to where it peters out. Now take a direct line to the summit, crossing a second bergschrund in the process, via steep and sometimes icy slopes (see photo #7).

North-East Face (TD)

SidCrward,Eome Rodri, anch'io sono curioso di vedere se Sertes porrà davvero una certa domanda a MM, come ieri sembrava risoluto a fare. Resto in attesa di sviluppi.La domanda in questione è alla fine del video della seconda parte delle domande. From the Britannia Hut descend the path on to the Hohlaub Glacier. Climb the bank of the glacier close to the Hinter Allalingrat, passing below Pt.3,249m (Hinter Allalinpass). Continue SW, passing below Mittelallalin, until you are in front of the steep NE Face (See photo #7).

This face can be climbed directly but is very difficult and is very rarely climbed. The climb in 1971 involved 4h of effort overcoming the serac barrier by aid of climbing on ice screws.

Overview

Route Name Hei. Dif. Dur. (h) Type Rock ° Valley Hut S. Gain Maps

Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.

Multiday Suggestions

Both the Täsch Hut and the Britannia Hut have a lot of mountains within a reasonable distance. Ascending the Allalinhorn from one of these huts and descending to the other hut is a good two-day trip. The ascents are rather short, especially from the WNW Ridge (4-5h), so you should arrive rather early in the hut and be able to recharge your batteries for an ascent of another mountain the next day. Arriving in Längflue at the end of the day is not a good solution because no other ascents are in close proximity. Some suggestions:

Additional Photos

Recommended Books

      The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke

      Valais Alps East: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin

      Valais Alps West: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Lindsay Griffin

      Valais East: Zermatt - Saas - Fiesch (Rother Walking Guide) by Michael Waeber

      Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Cathy Cosley

  • You can click the images to get a bigger image of the front cover!
  • We offer you a direct deeplink to Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de to buy the book. Amazon is the biggest online store in the world and offers a safe environment to buy anything you want.

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