Blanc de Moming

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Blanc de Moming

Photo of the Blanc de Moming
Blanc de Moming N side seen from the Tracuit Hut

Elevation 3,661 m12,011.155 ft
2.275 miles
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Weisshorn Group
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DMS Coor. 46°4´25"N, 7°39´52"E
Swiss Coor. 617485 / 102482
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Besso, Grand Mountet Hut, Mammouth, Petit Mountet Hut, Rothorn Hut, Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group), Zinal Rothorn
Alpinist's Info
Topo. Map SLK 1327: Evolène
Easiest Route Rating F F
Blanc de Moming (Switzerland )
Blanc de Moming
Blanc de Moming


[edit] General information

The Blanc de Moming (3,661 m) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in the canton of Valais, Switzerland. It is a relatively insignificant mountain but its traverse, coupled with that of the Besso makes a fine outing. Blanc de moming is connected to Besso via a rock ridge and to Zinalrothorn via a thin snow ridge oriented E - W. Blanc de Moming has two summits, the S and lower summit is entirely snow whilst the main N summit is rock. It is traditionally a summit for ski mountaineering, and can be a nice ascent for not far experienced mountaineers.

[edit] Climbing history

First climbed by H. King with A. Anthamatten and A. Supersaxo on 28 July 1886 from Zinal.

[edit] Routes

NW Ridge, SW Ridge and Blanc Ridge routes

[edit] Blanc Ridge

From the Grand Mountet Hut (2,888 m) take the moraine path to la Forcle (3,188 m) (45 min) and take the right border of the Mountet Glacier until you cross the bergschrund and go up to Pt. 3,732 m (1.5h). Descend 150m on the thin Blanc Ridge to Pt. 3,582 m (0.5h) and ascend the dom (3,638 m) (20 min). Climb the main summit to 3,661 m in 10 min. Take the SW ridge to go back to the Grand Mountet Hut. (1.5h)

[edit] North-West Ridge (AD)

This ridge forms part of the recommended traverse and starts at the low point on the ridge separating the Besso and the Blanc de Moming. This route is used when descending from Besso.

From the summit of Besso descend, quite easily, the ridge leading SE to its lowest point. From this point the ridge has numerous gendarmes and each of these is climbed, ideally on the crest. Any difficulties can be turned on the E side but always on less sound rock than is found on the crest itself. Eventually a snow crest leads to the final rocks of the N summit. Continue SE to the S summit. (2-2.5h)

[edit] South-West Ridge (PD)

This route is used when descending (from Besso)

From the S summit descend the ridge easily as far as a snowy shoulder on the R after descending 300m in height. Follow the snowy shoulder down until terraces (marked with cairns) lead S to the col marked Pt. 3,188 m. From here head SE across bouldery ground to quickly reach the path to the Grand Mountet Hut. (1.5h)

[edit] North Face (D)

This route is accessed from the Arpitettaz Hut. The Moming Glacier is highly crevassed and it's difficult to access its base due to its retreat. Seracs and stone falls are common here.

The N face itself is a 400m high and 60° ice face with a rock part in the middle.

[edit] Additional photos

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