Breithorn East
From Mount Wiki
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Breithorn East Breithorn Twin West (en)
Breithorn Zwilling West (de) | |
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| General | |
| Elevation | 4,139 m13,579.396 ft 2.572 miles |
| Location | Valais, Switzerland Valle d'Aosta, Italy |
| Range | Pennine Alps |
| Massif | Breithorn-Liskamm Group |
| Sponsored Links | |
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| Coordinates | |
| DMS Coor. | 45°56´19"N, 7°46´5"E |
| Swiss Coor. | 625485 / 87385 |
| Links | Topographic Detail |
| Nearby Features | |
| Breithorn, Breithorn Central, Breithorn Gendarme, Breithorn-Liskamm Group, Castor, Gobba di Rollin, Klein Matterhorn, Mezzalama Hut, Pollux, Roccia Nera, Rossi and Volante Bivouac, Valle d'Ayas Guides' Hut | |
| Alpinist's Info | |
| Base(s) | Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt |
| Hut(s) | Gandegg Hut, Rossi and Volante Bivouac |
| Topo. Map | SLK 1348: Zermatt |
| Easiest Route |  D
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| Map | |
  Breithorn East | |
This page is about Breithorn East. For other uses see Breithorn (disambiguation).
Contents |
[edit] General information
The Breithorn East (or Breithorn Twin West, as it is the most western peak of the Breithorn Twins (German: Zwillinge)) (4,150 m) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, located east of the Breithorn Central and West of Breithorn Gendarme. It's on the border between Switzerland and Italy. For more information visit the Breithorn page.
[edit] Geology
The S flank is almost entirely snow with just a short rock buttress forming the summit and can be climbed almost anywhere. The WNW ridge forms part of the Breithorn traverse route, as does the short SE ridge. Most dramatic is the N flank which is mostly of rock split by a massive snow filled couloir which is clearly indicated on the map. Projecting from the face is a long ridge terminating 2 km N of the Gorner Glacier. The upper part of this ridge is the line of the Younggrat route. Several routes and variations to these have been climbed on this flank and three of these are described here.
[edit] Climbing history
The Younggrat was completed by R. Mayor, C. Robertson and G. Young with J. Knubel and M. Ruppen on 18 Aug. 1906. The first winter ascent on this route was by P. Aredi and V. Lazzarino on 24/28 Feb. 1963.
The north-east couloir was done by L. Graf, K. Kubiena and E. Vanis on 24 July 1954. The same route with a variation start was established by E. Cavalieri, A. Mellano and R. Perego on 29 July 1960 and the first winter ascent was by E. Boreatti and A. Sioli on 20 Mar. 1972.
The north-east spur was first done by E. Cavalieri and P. Villaggio on 31 July 1961.
[edit] Routes
[edit] Younggrat (D)
A long and serious classic climb with the main difficulties near the top. Mainly snow and ice but with some enjoyable rock as well as some difficult mixed climbing.
[edit] From the Gandegg Hut
| Breithorn East: Younggrat from the Gandegg Hut (edit infobox) | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Summit | Approach | ||
| Summit | Breithorn East (4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft) | Valley base(s) | Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles 5,275.591 ft) |
| Route Type | Snow and Rock, III (12 h) | Hut | Gandegg Hut (3,029 m1.882 miles 9,937.664 ft) |
| Difficulty | D
| Difficulty | W1 |
| Height Gains | Hut - Summit: 1110 m0.69 miles 3,641.732 ft  - Valley - Hut: 1421 m0.883 miles 4,662.073 ft - Valley - Summit: 2531 m1.573 miles 8,303.806 ft
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| Useful Maps | SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps) | ||
Descend the cliff path on to the Unterer Theodule Glacier. Head SE across the glacier towards the rocks of Pt. 2,982 m. Pass the rocks on the R and then descend the Triftji Glacier to a height of 2,880 m before crossing it to reach the E branch of the glacier which descends in a NWerly direction from the Triftjisattel. (Note that both seracs and the state of the glacier make it easier and safer to descend after Pt. 2,982 m rahter than taking a higher traverse line). Climb up this branch on its R (N) bank until below the Triftjisattel, which is situated to the S of Pt. 3,250.6 m. (2-2.5h)
From the saddle descend 120m in the couloir on the E side which is not quite as bad as it at first appears but requires one 10m rappel. Head SE across the upper basin of the Breithorn Glacier, taking a high line to keep well above some large crevasses whilst at the same time keeping well clear of the seracs on the N face and so reach the Klein Triftjisattel at 3,498 m. (4h from hut)
Follow the arête, at first on snow and then on rock, turning most of the difficulties on the L (E) side. Eventually reach the, so-called, Grand Gendarme which is not at all obvious when you are on the ridge. It is turned on the L by a 10m horizontal hand traverse followed by a slightly descending traverse for another 10m (III) to reach a brèche. Continue on snow and rock to another delightful rock pitch up the crest of yet another gendarme. From its top descend 10m on easy rock on the E side to a horizontal ledge which is used to avoid a sharp and steepening snow crest. Once back on the crest a pitch of difficult mixed climbing leads to easier angled snow. Continue to the summit rocks which are turned by a traverse to the R, usually on steep ice, to reach more mixed ground which in turn leads to the summit ridge. The traverse referred to above can be undertaken just below the summit rocks or 75m below these, depending on conditions. The higher traverse is shorter (35m) and leaves less difficult climbing to the summit. (8h)
Total climbing time is 12h.
It's possible to climb the summit rocks direct but this is considerably more difficult than any of the climbing that has gone before: 40m IV+.
[edit] From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac
| Breithorn East: Younggrat from the Rossi and Volante Bivouac (edit infobox) | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Summit | Approach | ||
| Summit | Breithorn East (4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft) | Valley base(s) | Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt |
| Route Type | Snow and Rock, III (9 h) | Hut | Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles 12,303.15 ft) |
| Difficulty | D
| Difficulty |  F
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| Height Gains | Hut - Summit: 389 m0.242 miles 1,276.247 ft
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| Useful Maps | SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps) | ||
From Schwarztor descend the L bank of the Schwärze Glacier keeping close to the rocks of the Roccia Nera and passing below Pt. 3,512 m to a height of roughly 3,400 m to gain a snowy ramp on the L which leads to the Klein Triftjisattel. The glacier may be tricky just before the ramp. (1h)
From Klein Triftjisattel, follow the arête, at first on snow and then on rock, turning most of the difficulties on the L (E) side. Eventually reach the, so-called, Grand Gendarme which is not at all obvious when you are on the ridge. It is turned on the L by a 10m horizontal hand traverse followed by a slightly descending traverse for another 10m (III) to reach a brèche. Continue on snow and rock to another delightful rock pitch up the crest of yet another gendarme. From its top descend 10m on easy rock on the E side to a horizontal ledge which is used to avoid a sharp and steepening snow crest. Once back on the crest a pitch of difficult mixed climbing leads to easier angled snow. Continue to the summit rocks which are turned by a traverse to the R, usually on steep ice, to reach more mixed ground which in turn leads to the summit ridge. The traverse referred to above can be undertaken just below the summit rocks or 75m below these, depending on conditions. The higher traverse is shorter (35m) and leaves less difficult climbing to the summit. (8h)
Total climbing time is 9h.
It's possible to climb the summit rocks direct but this is considerably more difficult than any of the climbing that has gone before: 40m IV+.
[edit] North-East Couloir (TD-/TD)
The most obvious line on this side of the mountain, situated between the N ridge (Younggrat) and the NE spur. It is broad and fairly evenly angled (55°) except for the lowest part which is steeper and narrower than the rest and mostly rock. This part is somewhat exposed to stonefall and so the variation start is described. This avoids the lower part of the couloir by the rocks on the L (E). The orientation of the face on this part of the mountain ensures that the rock dries quite quickly and that snow quickly consolidates into good névé.
| Breithorn East: North-East Couloir (edit infobox) | |||
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| Summit | Approach | ||
| Summit | Breithorn East (4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft) | Valley base(s) | Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt |
| Route Type | Mostly Snow, 55°, IV - V (7 - 10 h) | Hut | Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles 12,303.15 ft) |
| Difficulty |  TD
| Difficulty | F
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| Height Gains | Hut - Summit: 389 m0.242 miles 1,276.247 ft
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| Useful Maps | SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps) | ||
From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac traverse to the Schwarztor. From here descend the L bank of the Schwärze Glacier keeping close to the rocks of the Roccia Nera and passing below Pt. 3,512 m to the foot of the couloir. Cross the bergschrund directly below the couloir and climb up to the foot of the rock spur on the L of a small icy couloir. Climb several pitches by the easiest line before ascending a smooth 5m slab. Continue up the L side of a small couloir for 25m (IV) before moving into the couloir and following it delicately for a further 20m (piton). A slab on the R (V, piton) leads to easier terrain. Follow the crest of the spur over two short steps to a ledge below two narrow chimneys. Climb the L-hand chimney for a few m and then transfer to the R-hand one (15m, IV+) before easy rocks lead up to the snow of the main couloir.
Climb in the centre of the couloir, gaining this by a snow crest leading L from the top of the spur. Continue up the couloir as far as possible before exiting on to the Younggrat and finishing up that route.
Total climbing time is 7-10h from the hut.
[edit] North-East Spur (TD)
A very fine mixed climb with difficulty increasing as height is gained. Situated to the L (E) of the NE couloir, it climbs a steepish snow slope (50-55°) for 150m and continues up slabs (III and IV) for another 150m before reaching the upper mixed section which extends for a further 350m.
| Breithorn East: North-East Spur (edit infobox) | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Summit | Approach | ||
| Summit | Breithorn East (4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft) | Valley base(s) | Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt |
| Route Type | Snow and Rock, 55°, III - V (13 h) | Hut | Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles 12,303.15 ft) |
| Difficulty | TD
| Difficulty | F
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| Height Gains | Hut - Summit: 389 m0.242 miles 1,276.247 ft
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| Useful Maps | SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps) | ||
From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac traverse to the Schwarztor. From here descend the L bank of the Schwärze Glacier keeping close to the rocks of the Roccia Nera. After passing below Pt. 3,512 m cross the bergschrund where possible, usually to the R of the foot of the spur and climb the snow slope towards its foot. This will involve crossing deep grooves created by stonefall. Continue up the L side of the rocks until a broken rock ramp above an overhang can be followed to the crest of the spur. To avoid stonefall it is as well to reach this point before sunrise.
Climb easily just L of the crest following a couloir and then a narrow chimney to overcome a steeper section. A few m higher, leave the couloir at a break leading R. Traverse for 12m with one delicate move (III+) to some steep slabs. Climb the slabs to regain the crest of the spur above some overhangs. Continue on the crest up excellent slabby rock (III and IV).
Higher up the slabs become interspersed with bands of snow and the slope becomes steeper. Reach the bottom of a dièdre slanting up Lwards. Climb its L side and then a short and slightly overhanging wall (V, with 2 pitons) before leaving the dièdre and continuing straight up on mixed terrain. The slope steepens again and all the ledges become banked out with snow or ice. Head towards a triangular grey tower split by a dièdre and climb this, avoiding an overhang on the R (V, with 1 piton). Two delicate pitches up frequently verglased rock (2 pitons in place) lead to a steep couloir breaking through some overhangs. Climb the couloir, which is usually icy and quite difficult, for several pitches. One pitch in particular is often icy and delicate. Pitons are in place for belays. Towards its top the couloir curves L. Here keep to rocks on its L and continue to a final steepening. Two pitches up a chimney (IV) lead to the summit crest.
Total climbing time is 13h.
[edit] Overview
| Route Name | Hei. | Dif. | Dur. (h) | Type | Rock | ° | Valley | Hut | S. Gain | Maps |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Breithorn East: Younggrat from the Gandegg Hut | 4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft | D | 12 | Snow and Rock | III | Zermatt | Gandegg Hut | 1,110 m0.69 miles 3,641.732 ft | 1348 | |
| Breithorn East: Younggrat from the Rossi and Volante Bivouac | 4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft | D | 9 | Snow and Rock | III | Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt | Rossi and Volante Bivouac | 389 m0.242 miles 1,276.247 ft | 1348 | |
| Breithorn East: North-East Couloir | 4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft | TD | 7-10 | Mostly Snow | IV-V | 55 | Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt | Rossi and Volante Bivouac | 389 m0.242 miles 1,276.247 ft | 1348 |
| Breithorn East: North-East Spur | 4,139 m2.572 miles 13,579.396 ft | TD | 13 | Snow and Rock | III-V | 55 | Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt | Rossi and Volante Bivouac | 389 m0.242 miles 1,276.247 ft | 1348 |
Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.
[edit] Additional photos
 Breithorn peaks from the N with Roccia Nera, Breithorn Gendarme, Breithorn East, Breithorn Central and Breithorn |
 Breithorn East and Breithorn Gendarme from the S |
 Breithorn East from the S |
 Breithorn Central, Breithorn East, Breithorn Gendarme, Roccia Nera and Valle d'Ayas Guides' Hut |
 Breithorn Plateau and Breithorn peaks from the S |
 view over the Breithorn Plateau (standing on Breithorn Central); In the front the two rocky Breithorn-Twins: Breithorn East and Breithorn Gendarme - The end of the ridge is Roccia Nera. After that is the small Pollux-Pyramid; The big on the right is Castor; In the background near the clouds is Il Naso. The two big peaks in the middle are Lyskamm West (front) and Lyskamm East (behind). On the left side the four summits are from left to right: Nordend, Dufourspitze (second highest summit of the alps), Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe. On Signalkuppe you can see on the highest left a black dot, this is the highest hut of Europe: Margherita Hut. Behind Lyskamm is Parrotspitze (on the left you can see a little bit of the ridge to Parrotspitze from Signalkuppe. |
 Roccia Nera, Breithorn Gendarme and Breithorn East from the N |
[edit] Recommended books
The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke
Valais Alps East: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin
Valais Alps West: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Lindsay Griffin
Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Cathy Cosley
Valais West: Zinal - Arolla - Verbier - Rhone Valley (Rother Walking Guide) by Michael Waeber & Hans Steinbichler
- You can click the images to get a bigger image of the front cover!
- We offer you a direct deeplink to Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de to buy the book. Amazon is the biggest online store in the world and offers a safe environment to buy anything you want.
