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Breithorn Gendarme Breithorn Twin East (en) Breithorn Zwilling Ost (de) Gemello del Breithorn orient. (it) Punta 4106 (it)
View on the Breithorn peaks from the N; Breithorn Gendarme is the second peak from the left.
General
Elevation	4,106 m13,471.129 ft 2.551 miles
Location	Valais, Switzerland Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Range	Pennine Alps
Massif	Breithorn-Liskamm Group
Sponsored Links
Coordinates
DMS Coor.	45°56´13"N, 7°46´17"E
Swiss Coor.	625730 / 87199
Links	Topographic Detail Coordinates Information
Nearby Features
Breithorn, Breithorn Central, Breithorn East, Breithorn-Liskamm Group, Castor, Gobba di Rollin, Mezzalama Hut, Pollux, Roccia Nera, Rossi and Volante Bivouac, Valle d'Ayas Guides' Hut
Alpinist's Info
Base(s)	Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Hut(s)	Rossi and Volante Bivouac
Topo. Map	SLK 1348: Zermatt
Easiest Route	D+
Map
Breithorn Gendarme

[edit] General information

The Breithorn Gendarme (or Breithorn Twin East, as it is the most eastern peak of the Breithorn Twins (German: Zwillinge)) (4,150 m) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps, located east of the Breithorn East and West of Roccia Nera. It's on the border between Switzerland and Italy. For more information visit the Breithorn page.

[edit] Geology

A distinctive pinnacle on the ridge between the Roccia Nera and the Breithorn East. Its NE and ENE faces provide the line of two worthwhile climbs. In fact the two climbs share some common ground in their middle parts.

[edit] Climbing history

The east-north-east wall was done by A. Molinari with O. Frachey on 23 Sept. 1951.

The north-east face was completed by B. Mailhot and G. Grassi on 30 June 1984.

[edit] Routes

Breithorn Gendarme routes from the N; red: approach from Rossi and Volante Bivouac (via Schwarztor); blue: NE face; green: ENE wall

[edit] North-East Face (TD+)

Another of the prolific Grassi's routes on the mountain and given the name Immaginando l'Inimmaginabile. The route climbs the lower part of the face via a difficult goulotte before moving L to join the line of the ENE wall route. The routes follow the same line to the steep upper rock wall where the Grassi routes takes a system of icy couloirs and ledges towards the col W of the highest point.

Breithorn Gendarme: North-East Face (edit infobox)
Summit		Approach
Summit	Breithorn Gendarme (4,106 m2.551 miles 13,471.129 ft)	Valley base(s)	Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Route Type	Snow and Rock, 90°, IV (9 h)	Hut	Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles 12,303.15 ft)
Difficulty	TD+	Difficulty	F
Height Gains	Hut - Summit: 356 m0.221 miles 1,167.979 ft
Useful Maps	SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)

From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac: from Schwarztor descend the L bank of the Schwärze Glacier keeping close to the rocks of the Roccia Nera until you reach the foot of the wall. To the E of Pt. 3,512 is a long steep and narrow couloir (the NE couloir and the line of Primorska Smer, P. and P. Podgornik, 22 Aug. 1980; TD.) and to the E of this is a chimney-couloir easily seen from below. Climb the snow/ice slope below the couloir and one pitch up into the narrower part of it (good belay point). Continue with difficulty up the narrow icy goulotte. This is taken on the L side at first then on the R by a vertical wall, to pass an obstruction, before returning to the L side again and finally exiting by the R wall (75-80° with one section of 90°). Short steps lead to a rib which in turn leads to a big icy ramp slanting L. (1h)

Three pitches up the ramp lead to easier ground (common with the ENE wall route) as far as the upper rock wall. Reach this, via a snow slope, at an icy chimney-couloir which slants steeply R. An initial narrow and vertical section of the chimney leads on to some mixed terrain and subsequently a steep and narrow rocky section (IV+). This is followed by a further icy chimney (90°) before easier climbing leads to a snow crest. Mover Rwards now over mixed ground to a snow slope below a steep wall. Cross the snow slope Rwards for 25m to where a belay can be taken below a peculiar overhang. Keep moving R to an icy ramp and climb it, with difficulty at the start on mixed terrain, to its end and a belay. Keep on the snow slopes just R of the rocks above and climb to a small but very steep couloir which is used to exit the route. (8h)

Total climbing time is 9h.

[edit] East-North-East Wall (D+)

The first route climbed on the N side of the Breithorn on the section between the Roccia Nera and the Younggrat and achieved by the well-known Italian female alpinst Anna Molinari with one of the famous Frachey brothers. The lower part of the route is somewhat exposed to stonefall. There are some pitons in place.

Breithorn Gendarme: East-North-East Wall (edit infobox)
Summit		Approach
Summit	Breithorn Gendarme (4,106 m2.551 miles 13,471.129 ft)	Valley base(s)	Breuil-Cervinia, Saint Jacques, Zermatt
Route Type	Snow and Rock (7 h)	Hut	Rossi and Volante Bivouac (3,750 m2.33 miles 12,303.15 ft)
Difficulty	D+	Difficulty	F
Height Gains	Hut - Summit: 356 m0.221 miles 1,167.979 ft
Useful Maps	SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)

From the Rossi and Volante Bivouac: from Schwarztor descend the L bank of the Schwärze Glacier keeping close to the rocks of the Roccia Nera until you reach the foot of the wall. After crossing the bergschrund, start the climb further L than the NE face route at a slabby rock face L of a conspicious snow patch. The route slants slightly Rwards to a short wall, which is climbed, and then a short ice crest is followed to reach the foot of a steep rock step. Cross an ice slope Rwards to gain a fairly steep icy couloir. Climb this for 50m using holds on the R wall and then a rocky couloir for a further 40m to a jammed block. Leave the couloir here, moving R with the aid of the block, and get on to a ramp slanting up from R to L (cairn: possible snow covered). Follow the ramp to its end and then climb the wall that confronts you on its L side. The line now follows a series of little couloirs and ledges slightly Lwards to flat ledge. From here short rock steps and icy grooves lead to the summit.

Total climbing time is 7h.

[edit] Overview

Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.

[edit] Additional photos

Breithorn peaks from the N with Roccia Nera, Breithorn Gendarme, Breithorn East, Breithorn Central and Breithorn	Breithorn East and Breithorn Gendarme from the S	Breithorn Gendarme and Roccia Nera from the S	Breithorn Central, Breithorn East, Breithorn Gendarme, Roccia Nera and Valle d'Ayas Guides' Hut from the S
Breithorn Plateau and Breithorn peaks from the S	view over the Breithorn Plateau (standing on Breithorn Central); In the front the two rocky Breithorn-Twins: Breithorn East and Breithorn Gendarme - The end of the ridge is Roccia Nera. After that is the small Pollux-Pyramid; The big on the right is Castor; In the background near the clouds is Il Naso. The two big peaks in the middle are Lyskamm West (front) and Lyskamm East (behind). On the left side the four summits are from left to right: Nordend, Dufourspitze (second highest summit of the alps), Zumsteinspitze and Signalkuppe. On Signalkuppe you can see on the highest left a black dot, this is the highest hut of Europe: Margherita Hut. Behind Lyskamm is Parrotspitze (on the left you can see a little bit of the ridge to Parrotspitze from Signalkuppe.	Roccia Nera, Breithorn Gendarme and Breithorn East from the N

[edit] Recommended books

      The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke

      Valais Alps East: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin

      Valais Alps West: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Lindsay Griffin

      Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Cathy Cosley

      Valais West: Zinal - Arolla - Verbier - Rhone Valley (Rother Walking Guide) by Michael Waeber & Hans Steinbichler

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