Città di Gallarate Bivouac
From Mount Wiki
| Città di Gallarate Bivouac Bivacco Città di Gallarate (it)
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| General | ||
| Elevation | 3,970 m13,024.934 ft 2.467 miles | |
| Type | CAI | |
| Location | ||
| Location | Piemonte, Italy | |
| Range | Pennine Alps | |
| Massif | Monte Rosa | |
| Coordinates | ||
| DMS Coor. | 45°57´8"N, 7°52´38"E | |
| Swiss Coor. | 634008 / 89055 | |
| Links | Topographic Detail | |
| Nearby Features | ||
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Dufourspitze, Grenzgipfel, Grenzsattel, Margherita Hut, Marinelli Bivouac, Monte Rosa, Nordend, Ostspitze, Resegotti Bivouac, Signalkuppe, Silbersattel, Zumsteinspitze | ||
| Alpinist's Info | ||
| Base(s) | Gallarate, Saas Fee, Zermatt | |
| Summit(s) | Jägerhorn, Nordend | |
| Topo. Map | SLK 1348: Zermatt | |
| Approach Difficulty |  F
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| Hut Info | ||
| Places | 9 | |
| Guarded | always unguarded | |
| Catering | No drinks and No food | |
| Tel. | 0039 (0)331 79 75 64 (info) | |
| caigallarate@iol.it | ||
| Website | www.caigallarate.it/Rifugi-e-Bivacchi/Citta-di-Gallarate | |
| Map | ||
  Città di Gallarate Bivouac | ||
Contents |
[edit] General information
The Città di Gallarate Bivouac (Italian: Bivacco Città di Gallarate) (3,970 m) is a mountain bivouac hut above Gallarate in the Pennine Alps in Italy. It's a small, typical Italian bivouac hut, constructed in wood and sheet metal and situated against the S summit of the Jägerhorn.
[edit] Accommodation
9 places
Gas stove without gas available.
[edit] Approach Route
- From Belloni Bivouac: (AD-, 6h)
Cross the Piccolo Filar Glacier above the seracs (2,800 m) and reach the Jägerrücken (spur) that leads in a rather difficult rock climb (max. IV) to the top of Jägerhorn.
- From Monte Rosa Hut: (PD, 5h)
Follow a path E and then ENE up the huge rocky hump overlooking the hut to reach the L lateral moraine of the Monte Rosa Glacier. Climb the moraine to a height of 2,900 m and then get on to the glacier at the most convenient point. Head across the glacier towards Pt. 3,074 m which is the top end of the R lateral moraine. Turn N and look for a cairn showing the easiest crossing point of the ridge ahead, this is 400m WNW of Pt. 3,263.9 m. There are fixed belay/rappel rings on the rocks at the top. Once across the ridge descend on to the Görner Glacier. Head up the L bank of the glacier combe below the col. Climb the combe to the col. The hut is 150 m N from the col.
- From Arben Glacier: (5h)
- From Stockhornpass: (F, 4h)
From the Stockhorn lift station cross the summit of the mountain and then descend the E ridge, mostly on névé on the N side to reach the Stockhornpass. Head SE up the broad snow ridge descending from Pt. 3,632 m. At a height of 3,540 m start contouring SSE and pass below the Gr and Kl Fillarhorn to reach the glacier combe below the col. Continue as above.
