Città di Gallarate Bivouac

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Città di Gallarate Bivouac
Bivacco Città di Gallarate (it)

Photo of the Città di Gallarate Bivouac
Città di Gallarate Bivouac

Elevation 3,970 m13,024.934 ft
2.467 miles
Type CAI
Location Piemonte, Italy
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Monte Rosa
Sponsored Links

DMS Coor. 45°57´8"N, 7°52´38"E
Swiss Coor. 634008 / 89055
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Belloni Bivouac, Dufourspitze, Grenzgipfel, Grenzsattel, Margherita Hut, Marinelli Bivouac, Monte Rosa, Nordend, Ostspitze, Resegotti Bivouac, Signalkuppe, Silbersattel, Zumsteinspitze
Alpinist's Info
Base(s) Gallarate, Saas Fee, Zermatt
Summit(s) Jägerhorn, Nordend
Topo. Map SLK 1348: Zermatt
Approach Difficulty Rating F F
Hut Info
Places 9
Guarded always unguarded
Catering No drinks and No food
Tel. 0039 (0)331 79 75 64 (info)
Città di Gallarate Bivouac (Italy )
Città di Gallarate Bivouac
Città di Gallarate Bivouac
>> European Alps > Western European Alps > Pennine Alps > Monte Rosa > Città di Gallarate Bivouac


General information

The Città di Gallarate Bivouac (Italian: Bivacco Città di Gallarate) (3,970 m) is a mountain bivouac hut above Gallarate in the Pennine Alps in Italy. It's a small, typical Italian bivouac hut, constructed in wood and sheet metal and situated against the S summit of the Jägerhorn.


9 places

Gas stove without gas available.

Approach Route

Cross the Piccolo Filar Glacier above the seracs (2,800 m) and reach the Jägerrücken (spur) that leads in a rather difficult rock climb (max. IV) to the top of Jägerhorn.

Follow a path E and then ENE up the huge rocky hump overlooking the hut to reach the L lateral moraine of the Monte Rosa Glacier. Climb the moraine to a height of 2,900 m and then get on to the glacier at the most convenient point. Head across the glacier towards Pt. 3,074 m which is the top end of the R lateral moraine. Turn N and look for a cairn showing the easiest crossing point of the ridge ahead, this is 400m WNW of Pt. 3,263.9 m. There are fixed belay/rappel rings on the rocks at the top. Once across the ridge descend on to the Görner Glacier. Head up the L bank of the glacier combe below the col. Climb the combe to the col. The hut is 150 m N from the col.

From the Stockhorn lift station cross the summit of the mountain and then descend the E ridge, mostly on névé on the N side to reach the Stockhornpass. Head SE up the broad snow ridge descending from Pt. 3,632 m. At a height of 3,540 m start contouring SSE and pass below the Gr and Kl Fillarhorn to reach the glacier combe below the col. Continue as above.



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