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Dufourspitze Monte Rosa Pointe Dufour (fr) Punta Dufour (it)
Dufourspitze as seen from Schwärze Glacier
General
Elevation	4,634 m15,203.412 ft 2.879 miles
Prominence	2,165 m1.345 miles 7,103.018 ft
Location	Valais, Switzerland
Range	Pennine Alps
Massif	Monte Rosa
Sponsored Links
Coordinates
DMS Coor.	45°56´12.6"N, 7°52´1.4"E
Swiss Coor.	633229 / 87340
Links	Topographic Detail Coordinates Information
Nearby Features
Balmenhorn, Balmenhorn Bivouac, Città di Gallarate Bivouac, Corno Nero, Grenzgipfel, Grenzsattel, Gugliermina Bivouac, Liskamm East, Ludwigshöhe, Margherita Hut, Marinelli Bivouac, Monte Rosa, Nordend, Ostspitze, Parrotspitze, Resegotti Bivouac, Signalkuppe, Silbersattel, Zumsteinspitze
Alpinist's Info
Topo. Map	SLK 1348: Zermatt
Easiest Route	{{{{}}}}
Map
Dufourspitze

Contents 1 General Information 1.1 ROUTES 1.2 WEST RIDGE, AD 1.3 Additional photos

[edit] General Information

Dufourspitze (Dufour Peak , Pointe Dufour, Punta Dufour or Monte Rosa) is a mountain of the Monte Rosa Massif in the Pennine Alps. With its 4,634 m summit, it is the second highest mountain in the Alps and western Europe and the highest of the Pennine Alps. Its 2,470 m eastern wall is also the tallest in the Alps and its western side is covered by the Görner Glacier, the second largest in the Alps. The peak is located in the canton of Valais in the municipality of Zermatt. The Monte Rosa Massif is a mountain range lying on the border between Italy and Switzerland and composed of several summits over 4500 metres.

[edit] ROUTES

The most popular route on the Dufourspitze starts from the Monte Rosa Hut, but the mountain can also be climbed from Italy as it lies very close to the border. When climbed from the Italian side one can stay overnight in the Gnifetti Hut. The way up on the Monte Rosa massif starts in the town of Zermatt. In the middle of town one can take the Gornergratbahn/ train up to Rotenboden mountain train station. There is an excellent path going down towards the Gorner glacier/ Grenz glacier. Time used before reaching the Monte Rosa hut is about five hours. Sign posting is good, aswell on the glacier.

[edit] WEST RIDGE, AD

So called normal route goes from the Monte Rosa hut on the west ridge/ Oberen Westgrat and follows the ridge going over two peaks before reaching the Dufourspitze. Best starting time is two O'clock in the morning. One follows man made piles of stones towards south east. After two hours one will reach the Monte Rosa glacier and when coming on a flat terrain, the Obere Plattje. This glacier section has plenty of cracks so one needs to pay an extra attention for it. From here one continues towards east. When a wider terrain opens the snow path turns towards right/south and on the west ridge. One can also continue straight ahead, which takes one on the Silber Sattel and on the Nordend mountain. Where the paths are going to different directions one will also see the west ridge belonging to Dufourspitze. At the start of the west ridge the climb style changes to category AD. One should climb roughly in the middle when ascending the first face, as the north face of the ridge may cause ultimate danger if starting to glide downwards. On the top starts a ridge period, but it is easy for experienced mountaineers. Second peak/face is quicker to climb through. There is still some rock climbing sections between the second peak and Dufourspitze. One can either return the same route or belay down the north face which is 150 m high. There is support ropes, but it is good to have own ropes with, because of the altitude and snow ice changes. Climbing down without ropes/ support ropes is not recommended. After one has belayed down it is easy descending using the Silber Sattel path down towards the path junction. When nearing the Obere Plattje extra care into details with the glacier is needed, as one is on the west side of the mountain, where sun makes its effort. Second night is recommended in the Monte Rosa Hut.

[edit] Additional photos

Oberen Westgrat

North face

Silbersattel path