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Mont Durand Arbenhorn (de)
Ober Gabelhorn (left), Mont Durand (right) with Arbenjoch between, seen from the N
General
Elevation	3,713 m12,181.759 ft 2.307 miles
Location	Valais, Switzerland
Range	Pennine Alps
Massif	Weisshorn Group
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Coordinates
DMS Coor.	46°2´1.5"N, 7°39´1.9"E
Swiss Coor.	616416 / 98051
Links	Topographic Detail Coordinates Information
Nearby Features
Arben Bivouac, Col Durand, Dent Blanche, Grand Mountet Hut, Ober Gabelhorn, Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group), Wellenkuppe
Alpinist's Info
Base(s)	Anniviers, Zermatt, Zinal
Hut(s)	Grand Mountet Hut, Schönbiel Hut
Topo. Map	SLK 1327: Evolène
Easiest Route	PD
Map
Mont Durand

[edit] General information

The Mont Durand (or Arbenhorn) (3,713 m12,181.759 ft
2.307 miles) is a mountain in the Pennine alps of Switzerland. It's not an important summit and so rarely climbed for its own sake. It is however quite frequently crossed by parties ascending or descending the Ober Gabelhorn, from which it is separated by the Arbenjoch. The NNW flank may attract some climbers. There are 2 routes on the face, one of which is relatively safe. (done by M. Brandt and party on 9 Sep. 1957: TD)

[edit] Routes

Overview of the N side of the area with the different routes (red: SW ridge; black: NE ridge; green: NNE face)

[edit] South-West Ridge from Schönbiel Hut (PD)

Mont Durand: South-West Ridge from Schönbiel Hut (edit infobox)
Summit		Approach
Summit	Mont Durand (3,713 m2.307 miles 12,181.759 ft)	Valley base(s)	Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles 5,275.591 ft)
Route Type	Mostly Snow (3.5 - 4 h)	Hut	Schönbiel Hut (2,694 m1.674 miles 8,838.583 ft)
Difficulty	PD	Difficulty	W1
Height Gains	Hut - Summit: 1019 m0.633 miles 3,343.176 ft     -    Valley - Hut: 1086 m0.675 miles 3,562.992 ft     -    Valley - Summit: 2105 m1.308 miles 6,906.168 ft
Useful Maps	SLK 1327: Evolène, SLK 1347: Matterhorn (Maps)

From the Schönbiel Hut follow the path leading NNW for a few min. Take the first branch R which climbs a steep grassy slope into the combe named Kumme. Climb the combe (cairned track) in a fairly direct line towards the L end of a ramp leading to the col at its head. Follow the ramp to the col and on its E side follow a continuation track slanting down on to the Hohwäng Glacier at Pt. 3,150 m. Climb the R (W) bank of the glacier passing close to the bottom of the rock rib marked Pt. 3,312 m before turning NNE to reach the col. There may be some large crevasses near the rock rib. From Col Durand follow the ridge crest easily on snow and then stony ground before a final steep snow slope leads to more easy ground and the summit. It's also possible to join the ridge some way above the col.

[edit] South-West Ridge from Mountet Hut (PD)

Mont Durand: South-West Ridge from Mountet Hut (edit infobox)
Summit		Approach
Summit	Mont Durand (3,713 m2.307 miles 12,181.759 ft)	Valley base(s)	Anniviers, Zinal
Route Type	Mostly Snow (3.5 - 4 h)	Hut	Grand Mountet Hut (2,886 m1.793 miles 9,468.504 ft)
Difficulty	PD	Difficulty	W1
Height Gains	Hut - Summit: 827 m0.514 miles 2,713.255 ft
Useful Maps	SLK 1327: Evolène (Maps)

From the Mountet Hut follow a track S on to the Mountet Glacier. The aim is to climb the Durand Glacier combe but to avoid crevasses do this by moving in an arc, at first heading SSE and finishing by heading SW. In this way reach the snow rib which extends SSW from the Roc Noir and climb this to the upper plateau of the glacier. Now head as direct as possible to the col, the actual direction being dictated by the position at which the bergschrund can be crossed. The slope above the bergschrund is usually quite steep for a few m and can be icy. From Col Durand follow the ridge crest easily on snow and then stony ground before a final steep snow slope leads to more easy ground and the summit.

[edit] North-East Ridge (PD)

From the Arbenjoch, which is the lowest point on the ridge between the Obergabelhorn and Mont Durand, follow the snow crest to the rocky point at Pt. 3,678 m. Beyond this make a steep descent back on to snow and follow easy ground to the summit. (30-45 min)

[edit] North-North-East Face (TD)

Two routes available, of which one is relatively safe.

[edit] Additional photos

View from the summit of Mont Durand with the Obergabelhorn in the back. The col between is the Arbenjoch.	Arbenjoch, Mont Durand, Col Durand, Pointe Zinal, Col de Zinal, Roc Noir, Durand Glacier and Grand Mountet Hut seen from Mammouth		Obergabelhorn, Arbenjoch, Mont Durand, Col Durand, Pointe Zinal, Col de Zinal, and Durand Glacier
Zinalrothorn, Trifthorn (the small peak in the middle), Nordend, Wellenkuppe, Obergabelhorn, Mont Durand. Huge Mountet Glacier. Picture taken from Pigne de la Lé.

[edit] Recommended books

The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke

Valais Alps East: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin

Valais Alps West: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Lindsay Griffin

Valais West: Zinal - Arolla - Verbier - Rhone Valley: Rother Walking Guide by Michael Waeber & Hans Steinbichler

Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Cathy Cosley

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