Monte Rosa Hut
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Monte Rosa Hut Monte Rosa Hütte (de)
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General | |
Elevation | 2,795 m9,169.948 ft 1.737 miles |
Type | SAC-CAS |
Location | Valais, Switzerland |
Range | Pennine Alps |
Massif | Monte Rosa |
Sponsored Links | |
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Coordinates | |
DMS Coor. | 45°57´28.5"N, 7°48´44.6"E |
Swiss Coor. | 628970 / 089660 |
Links | Topographic Detail |
Nearby Features | |
Görner Glacier, Görnergrat, Roccia Nera, Rossi and Volante Bivouac | |
Alpinist's Info | |
Base(s) | Zermatt |
Summit(s) | Balmenhorn, Castor, Cima di Jazzi, Corno Nero, Dufourspitze, Jägerhorn, Lyskamm, Nordend, Parrotspitze, Pollux, Punta Giordani, Pyramid Vincent, Signalkuppe, Zumsteinspitze |
Topo. Map | SLK 1348: Zermatt IGC 109: Monte Rosa - Alagna - Valsesia - Macugnaga - Gressoney |
Approach Difficulty | ![]() |
Hut Info | |
Places | 160 |
Guarded | 15 Mar. - 01 Jun. & 30 Jun. - 15 Sep. |
Catering | Drinks and Food |
Tel. | 0041 (0)27 967 21 15 (hut) 0041 (0)27 956 31 50 (warden) |
monterosa.sac@rhone.ch | |
Website | www.section-monte-rosa.ch/cabanes_4.htm |
Map | |
Contents |
[edit] General information
The Monte Rosa Hut (German: Monte Rosahütte) (2,795 m9,169.948 ft
1.737 miles) is a mountain hut above Zermatt in the Pennine Alps, in the canton of Valais, Switzerland. Situated like a castle on the top of a large ledge at the foot of the Monte Rosa the hut overlooks the Grenz Glacier coming down between Dufourspitze and Liskamm. To the south one can see the Matterhorn and the Görner Glacier and Görner ridge. Directly across from the hut is the impressive north wall of Liskamm.
The hut is owned and operated by the Monta Rosa Section of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC). The Monte Rosa Hut is the best base camp for climbs on the Swiss side of the Monte Rosa Massif. The hut wardens are Brantschen Manuela and Brantschen Horst (Feld 22, 3924 St. Niklaus; Tel: 0041 (0)27 956 31 50 or 0041 (0)78 605 45 33;e-mail: monterosa.sac@rhone.ch).
[edit] History
- In 1894 and 1895 the Betemps hut was built with 25 places, thanks to the Betemps and Seiler family and owned by the SAC Central Committee. (3000CHF)
- In 1918 the hut was expanded to 45 places.
- In 1925 the hut was handed over to SAC Monte Rosa Section with agreement to further expand the hut within in a year.
- In 1930 the hut is reinforced with 50cm stone walls.
- In 1939-1940 the hut was rebuilt with 86 places and at this point the hut is renamed Monte Rosa Hut (44900CHF)
- In 1972 the hut is increased to 116 places and space for ski equipment.
- In 1984 the hut expands to its current 150-160 spaces (685000CHF).
- In 2009 a new futuristic hut is inaugurated, just above the old hut.
[edit] Accomodation
160 places, 28 in winter room
Food and drinks are available. Three meals a day are served. Hot tea in the morning is available and lunch will be packed upon request. The water in the toilets and showers is melt coming off the glacier. The locals claim it is unfit to drink so you are warned not to.
Category | CHF/night |
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SAC Member | 21.5 |
J+S Member | 10.5 |
Non Member from 18 | 32.5 |
Non Member 7-17 | 17.5 |
Group from 10 people, 7-17 | 14 |
Child < 7 | 6 |
Half Pension | 34 |
1 liter hot water | 2 |
Sleeping bag compulsory!
[edit] Approach Routes
- From Zermatt: Görnergratbahn - Görner Glacier - Grenz Glacier (2.5-3h)
- Görnergratbahn (Mountain Railway) to Rotenboden
- Follow the excellent track along the Görner ridge parallel to the Görner Glacier
- After 1.5h, at the end of the ridge, turn to the right and cross the Görner Glacier. Trail is well marked with flags and crevasses and other traps are small and few in number. Roping up is not needed. The glacier is also heavily covered with a fine layer of grit so crampons are not usually necessary.
- One quickly crosses the Görner Glacier to a rather large lateral moraine, which marks the boundary between the Görner Glacier and Grenz glacier, which comes down between Dufourspitze and Liskamm. The path may meander more here on the Grenz Glacier as there are more hazards on this glacier.
- One continues on the Grenz Glacier for about another 45 mins until one is almost directly below the hut, which is located high on a ridge above. The path then takes a rather steep and exposed series of switchbacks and steps up the ridge and then along the top of a moraine to a set metal stairs that lead to the hut. There are steps, ropes and cables on this section of the hike but they were in a poor but not a dangerous state (summer of 2001).
- From Stockhorn (winter): Görner Glacier - Monte Rosa Glacier (2-3h)
- Reach Stochhorn:
- Climb valley below
- Take Railway to Görnergrat, then Cable Car to Hohalligrat, then Cable Car to Stockhorn
- Traverse ridge from Görnergrat
- Head E along the ridge for 30 mins until Stockhorn Pass just below Nordend
- Traverse Görner Glacier down through the rocks along the left side. You reach the edge of the glacier at about 3120m.
- Go slightly up the S-side and traverse the middle tongue of the Monte Rosa Glacier to Unteren Plattje and then the hut.
- Reach Stochhorn:
- From Furi: ascent of Görner Glacier (4h)
- 9km, gain of 940m in height
- Glacier traversing gear recommended: rope, crampons, ice-axe and a party of at least two, as conditions vary along the length of the glacier and there is no marked path.
- From Görnergrat: Goat trail; This is a very steep switchback trail (100+ of them) that starts about 300m past the summit observation platform at the Hotel on Görnergrat.
- From Klein Matterhorn via Swartztor
- From Gnifetti Hut or Rif. Mantova via Lisjoch
- From Quintino Sella Hut via Felikjoch
- From Saas Fee: Britannia Hut via the Adlerpass and Stockhornpass
- From Zermatt: Berghaus Flue via the Stockhornpass
The Görnergrat train and the cable cars are rather expensive at 60 CHF for a round trip from Zermatt to Görnergrat and about the same if not more for the cable cars. The Görnergrat Train station is just across the street from the main train station in Zermatt.
[edit] Ascents
Winter & summer
[edit] Crossings
- Gnifetti Hut (it) via Lysjoch
- Adlerpass - Britannia Hut - Signalkuppe - Margherita Hut (it)
- Balmenhorn Bivouac (it) (Bivacco Felice Giordano) via Lysjoch
- Quintino Sella Hut (it) (6h)
- Mezzalama Hut (it) (6.5h)
- Rossi and Volante Bivouac (it) (5h)
- Valle d'Ayas Guides' Hut (it) (5h)
[edit] Additional Photos
Görner Glacier below Monte Rosa Hut |
Gornerglacier3.jpg
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View from the back door of the hut overlooking the Görner Glacier. Matterhorn, Ober Gabelhorn, Wellenkuppe and Zinal Rothorn in the background. |