Rimpfischhorn

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Rimpfischhorn

Photo of the Rimpfischhorn
The Rimpfischhorn seen from the Allalinhorn

General
Elevation 4,199 m13,776.247 ft
2.609 miles
Prominence 635 m0.395 miles
2,083.333 ft
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Mischabel
Sponsored Links

Coordinates
DMS Coor. 46°1´23"N, 7°53´2"E
Swiss Coor. 634480 / 96932
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Adler Glacier, Adlerhorn, Adlerpass, Allalinhorn, Allalinpass, Città di Luino Bivouac, Feechopf, Feejoch, Fluchthorn, Schwarzberg Weisstor, Strahlhorn
Alpinist's Info
Base(s) Saas Fee, Täsch, Zermatt
Hut(s) Berghaus Flue, Britannia Hut, Täsch Hut
Topo. Map SLK 1348: Zermatt
Easiest Route Rating PD PD
Map
Rimpfischhorn (Switzerland )
Rimpfischhorn
Rimpfischhorn
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Contents

[edit] General information

The Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m13,776.247 ft
2.609 miles
) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps of Switzerland.

The first ascent of the mountain was by Leslie Stephen and Robert Liveing with guides Melchior Anderegg and Johann Zumtaugwald on 9 September 1859. Their route of ascent was from Berghaus Flue.

The Rimpfischhorn is located amidst of the mountain chain that links the Monte Rosa with the Mischabel peaks. It is not an extremely popular mountain, maybe it is too easy for the experienced and too demanding for the novice. This is surprising, since it can be climbed from both mountaineer Mecca's: Saas Fee and Zermatt. And the view from this mountain is extraordinary.

The pinnacled summit ridge, like the rest of a prehistoric giant reptile, is flanked to south-east and east by an almost pure rock face, on the west by a mixed face. The length of the approach, together with the climbing on the summit block, makes this one of the more demanding peaks of the region. Even when one permits shortening the approach by using one of the many available railways or lifts.

The prominent pointed tower at the start of the rocky part of the North Ridge of the Rimpfischhorn is so obviously separated by a deep notch that it should qualify as an independent summit. This most north pointy summit on the ridge is guarding as a policeman and is called the Rimpfischhorn Grand Gendarme. This Grand gendarme can be climbed as a summit on itself or it can be a prelude to an ascent of the Rimpfischhorn via the North Ridge.

Between the Grand Gendarme and the Rimpfischhorn, there are another five lesser tops at 4,120m, 4,130m, 4,140m, 4,160m and 4,175m. you can see all the different summits on photo #2.

[edit] Routes

[edit] West-South-West Ridge

[edit] From Berghaus Flue (PD)

Rimpfischhorn: West-South-West Ridge from Berghaus Flue (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles
5,275.591 ft
)
Route Type Snow and Rock, I - II (5 - 6 h) Hut Berghaus Flue (2,618 m1.627 miles
8,589.239 ft
)
Difficulty Rating PD PD Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1010 m0.628 miles
3,313.648 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2591 m1.61 miles
8,500.656 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)
#1: Overview of the 3 PD routes via the WSW Ridge

From Berghaus Flue, head E for about 1 km to small moraine lakes. From here the path goes left up over debris and pasture slopes. This path will bring you to the Pfulwe saddle (3,155m). Traverse to the north of Pfulwe (3,314m) to reach a not very prominent shoulder over a somewhat low snowfield. Make a rising traverse over the NE face and continue on the broad ridge (II & I). Follow this ridge until you reach the snowy West Summit (4,009m) and the Rimpfischsattel (3,985m) beyond.

The routes coming from the Täsch Hut and the Britannia Hut merge on the glacier (see photo #1). The combined route will merge with the route from Berghaus Flue in the Rimpfischsattel (see photo #2). The summit climb is the same for the three routes. If you are coming from Berghaus Flue, it takes 4h to get to the sattel, from the Täsch Hut or the Britannia Hut it takes up to 5h.

From the sattel go E up an icy snow slope to a couloir between the two rock ribs. Try to stick to the right-flanking rocks. After 50m of climbing quit the direct line and traverse left (N) over the ledges and continue your climb. After you summit the fore-summit via the West Ridge descent a notch beyond, and follow the exposed ridge to the summit (see photo #3 and #4). The climb starting from the sattel takes 1-2h.

[edit] From Täsch Hut (PD+)

Rimpfischhorn: West-South-West Ridge from Täsch Hut (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Täsch, Zermatt
Route Type Mostly Snow, I - II (6 - 7 h) Hut Täsch Hut (2,702 m1.679 miles
8,864.829 ft
)
Difficulty Rating PD+ PD+ Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1497 m0.93 miles
4,911.417 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1328: Randa (Maps)
#2: Merging of the PD routes from Berghaus Flue and Täsch Hut/Britannia Hut

From the Täsch Hut head towards the Allalinpass in a almost straight line. From the Täsch Hut follow the gradually rising path into the Chummiboden combe and then climb up the combe keeping the stream on your right side to reach the Alphubel Glacier. Climb the glacier heading SE and, ignoring tracks leading off left to the Alphubeljoch, reach the rounded glacier rib descending ENE to Pt.3,421m. Contour round at an altitude of 3,500m on to some stony ground then descend diagonally, losing as little height as possible, on to the N side of the Mellich Glacier. Continue on the Mellich Glacier (watch out for crevasses) and when you almost reach the Allalinpass start heading S and continue almost parallel with the Rimpfisch massif so that you avoid the rib descending from Grand Gendarme. Pass the foot of the rib (3,662m) and enter the glacier combe. Climb the combe by heading SE to reach the Rimpfischsattel.

This route is very similar to the the route coming from Berghaus Flue. The routes coming from the Täsch Hut and the Britannia Hut merge on the glacier (see photo #1). The combined route will merge with the route from Berghaus Flue in the Rimpfischsattel (see photo #2). The summit climb is the same for the three routes. If you are coming from Berghaus Flue, it takes 4h to get to the sattel, from the Täsch Hut or the Britannia Hut it takes up to 5h. Because this route is a little longer than the route from Berghaus Flue and this route crosses a glacier, this route is marked PD+ compared to the Berghaus Flue route which is marked PD.

From the sattel go E up an icy snow slope to a couloir between the two rock ribs. Try to stick to the right-flanking rocks. After 50m of climbing quit the direct line and traverse left (N) over the ledges and continue your climb. After you summit the fore-summit via the West Ridge descent a notch beyond, and follow the exposed ridge to the summit (see photo #3 and #4). The climb starting from the sattel takes 1-2h.

[edit] From Britannia Hut (PD+)

Rimpfischhorn: West-South-West Ridge from Britannia Hut (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Saas Fee (1,800 m1.118 miles
5,905.512 ft
)
Route Type Mostly Snow, I - II (6 - 7 h) Hut Britannia Hut (3,030 m1.883 miles
9,940.945 ft
)
Difficulty Rating PD+ PD+ Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1230 m0.764 miles
4,035.433 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2399 m1.491 miles
7,870.735 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1329: Saas, SLK 1328: Randa (Maps)
#3: The WSW Berghaus Flue route: West Summit, sattel and summit
#4: Detail of the summit climb via the WSW Ridge

From the Britannia Hut, head S and cross the Hohlaub Glacier. Aim to the saddle between the Allalinhorn and a rock hump. From the saddle the path descents a bit to reach the glacier again but stays close to the Allalinhorn wall. Continue on the glacier to the direction of Adlerpass. The glacier is severely crevassed so be careful. When you come to the end of the Allalinhorn East wall you are able to see the Allalinpass. Continue that direction and gain some elevation. Cross the Allalinpass and head SW on the Mellich Glacier. Follow a route so that you can go around the Grand Gendarme rib. Now you merged with the route coming from the Täsch Hut. Enter the glacier combe and climb it until you reach the Rimpfischsattel.

The routes coming from the Täsch Hut and the Britannia Hut merge on the glacier (see photo #1). The combined route will merge with the route from Berghaus Flue in the Rimpfischsattel (see photo #2). The summit climb is the same for the three routes. If you are coming from Berghaus Flue, it takes 4h to get to the sattel, from the Täsch Hut or the Britannia Hut it takes up to 5h. Because this route is a little longer than the route from Berghaus Flue and this route crosses a glacier, this route is marked PD+ compared to the Berghaus Flue route which is marked PD.

From the sattel go E up an icy snow slope to a couloir between the two rock ribs. Try to stick to the right-flanking rocks. After 50m of climbing quit the direct line and traverse left (N) over the ledges and continue your climb. After you summit the fore-summit via the West Ridge descent a notch beyond, and follow the exposed ridge to the summit (see photo #3 and #4). The climb starting from the sattel takes 1-2h.

[edit] North Ridge

[edit] From Britannia Hut (AD)

Rimpfischhorn: North Ridge from Britannia Hut (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Saas Fee (1,800 m1.118 miles
5,905.512 ft
)
Route Type Mostly Rock (7 h) Hut Britannia Hut (3,030 m1.883 miles
9,940.945 ft
)
Difficulty Rating AD AD Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1230 m0.764 miles
4,035.433 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2399 m1.491 miles
7,870.735 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1329: Saas, SLK 1328: Randa (Maps)
#5: Allalinpass seen from W side

From the Britannia Hut, head S and cross the Hohlaub Glacier. Aim to the saddle between the Allalinhorn and a rock hump. From the saddle the path descents a bit to reach the glacier again but stays close to the Allalinhorn wall. Continue on the glacier to the direction of Adlerpass. The glacier is severely crevassed so be careful. When you come to the end of the Allalinhorn East wall you are able to see the Allalinpass. Continue that direction and gain some elevation. From here you can easily see the snowy part of the Rimpfischhorn North Ridge which takes you to the beginning of the rock ridge. After gaining some elevation on the Allalinpass cross the glacier to the base of the N slope. Ascent the snowy slope which gets a bit steeper in the end. The snow slope ends to the base of Grand Gendarme (4,108m).

You can either climb to the top of the Gendarme or go around it on the E side. To go around the Gendarme, go E before reaching the foot of the gendarme to snowed-up ledges and follow these horizontally until you are below the gap on the S side of the Gendarme. climb to this gap. To traverse the Gendarme, follow the crest to summit (easy but exposed climbing). On the top there is anchor for rappeling (On the very top there are slings and cords but on the edge there are bolts). Rappel from the very top to the anchor 1/3 from the top of the Gendarme. From there you can reach the ridge with a 50 meter rope which you have doubled for rappelling. Descent into the gap on the S of the Gendarme.

#6: Grand Gendarme on the North Ridge of Rimpfischhorn

The ridge consists of pretty loose rock in the beginning of the route. Stay near to the top of the ridge and continue further on. The ridge is very easily defined and you can hardly go wrong. Although, don't attempt this route in hard winds or on poor visibility. On some parts the rocks in the shadows may be really slippery because of the ice. Follow a series of small gendarmes, possibly with some snow between the gendarmes. The route gets a bit narrow every now and then but stay near the edge. Stay on the right side (Zermatt side) of the ridge top until you come to a large overhanging boulder which points to the left (to the direction of Strahlhorn). Take the left side of the ridge and continue on the wide ledge under the overhanging boulder.

After you have climbed several subsidiary summits the route gets noticeably steeper. This is the summit block which you climb by a narrow chimney on the left. On the top of the chimney you come to a slab which takes you right next to the top. There are pitons to mark that you are on the route. Climb the slab directly up and be careful of the loose rocks. Make sure your holds are solid so you won't drop rocks on your partner. On top of the slab there are lots of rocks suitable for belaying your partner climbing up. Continue the last few steps to the rocky summit.

The fastest way to get down from the top is to take the normal route to the Rimpfischsattel. From here travel the glacier to the Allalinpass and continue to the Britannia Hut or you can go to Berghaus Flue or the Täsch Hut for some multiday action. Reversing is possible but takes almost the same time as the ascent.

[edit] From Täsch Hut (AD)

Rimpfischhorn: North Ridge from Täsch Hut (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Täsch, Zermatt
Route Type Snow and Rock (7 h) Hut Täsch Hut (2,702 m1.679 miles
8,864.829 ft
)
Difficulty Rating AD AD Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1497 m0.93 miles
4,911.417 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1328: Randa (Maps)

From the Täsch Hut head towards the Allalinpass in a almost straight line. From the Täsch Hut follow the gradually rising path into the Chummiboden combe and then climb up the combe keeping the stream on your right side to reach the Alphubel Glacier. Climb the glacier heading SE and, ignoring tracks leading off left to the Alphubeljoch, reach the rounded glacier rib descending ENE to Pt.3,421m. Contour round at an altitude of 3,500m on to some stony ground then descend diagonally, losing as little height as possible, on to the N side of the Mellich Glacier.

Continue on the Mellich Glacier (watch out for crevasses). When you reach the Allalinpass, follow the route as described above in North Ridge - From Britannia Hut (AD).

[edit] From Berghaus Flue (AD)

Rimpfischhorn: North Ridge from Berghaus Flue (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles
5,275.591 ft
)
Route Type Snow and Rock (7 - 8 h) Hut Berghaus Flue (2,618 m1.627 miles
8,589.239 ft
)
Difficulty Rating AD AD Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1010 m0.628 miles
3,313.648 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2591 m1.61 miles
8,500.656 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1328: Randa (Maps)

Normally the North Ridge is not climbed coming from Berghaus Flue, but it is possible. From Berghaus Flue, head E for about 1 km to small moraine lakes. From here the path goes left up over debris and pasture slopes. This path will bring you to the Pfulwe saddle (3,155m). Traverse to the north of Pfulwe (3,314m) to reach a not very prominent shoulder over a somewhat low snowfield. Make a rising traverse over the NE face and continue on the broad ridge (II & I). Follow this ridge until you reach the snowy West Summit (4,009m) and the Rimpfischsattel (3,985m) beyond.

Descent from Rimpfischsattel towards the glacier and continue N on the glacier to the Allalinpass. When you reach the Allalinpass, follow the route as described above in North Ridge - From Britannia Hut (AD).

[edit] South-East Ridge

[edit] From Britannia Hut (AD+)

Rimpfischhorn: South-East Ridge from Britannia Hut (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Saas Fee (1,800 m1.118 miles
5,905.512 ft
)
Route Type Snow and Rock (6 - 7 h) Hut Britannia Hut (3,030 m1.883 miles
9,940.945 ft
)
Difficulty Rating AD+ AD+ Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1230 m0.764 miles
4,035.433 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2399 m1.491 miles
7,870.735 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1328: Randa, SLK 1329: Saas (Maps)
#7:Allalin Glacier with Adlerpass in the back and Rimpfischhorn on the right side

From the Britannia Hut a marked track leads diagonally down rubble strewn slope on to the Hohlaub Glacier. Cross the glacier SW until directly below the snow saddle marked Pt.3105m and climb up to this point. Make a slight descent on the other on to the left bank of the Allalin Glacier and climb this side of the glacier under the walls of the Allalinhorn. When the wall heads W, at 3,240m altitude, reach a plateau.

Cross the plateau SSW, keeping left of a zone of seracs below the first rocks of the Rimpfischhorn (see photo #7 and #8). Once past these seracs turn SW then follow the left bank again close to the rocks of the Rimpfischhorn. From an altitude of 3,600m, take a direct line to the Adlerpass. Getting to the pass takes about 3h.

From the pass follow the snow crest and then broken rocks to reach a snow covered terrace which skirts the S flank of the mountain. From the top of the terrace slant up right for 20m on to the E flank of the now less well defined ridge. Climb this flank as direct as possible to a well defined shoulder: avoid wandering to the right side. Difficulties increase towards the top. From the shoulder follow the crest to the fore-summit, turning a pinnacle before you reach this point. Now continue to the summit. Starting from the pass, it takes about 3h to reach the summit.

[edit] From Berghaus Flue (AD+)

Rimpfischhorn: South-East Ridge from Berghaus Flue (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles
5,275.591 ft
)
Route Type Snow and Rock (8 h) Hut Berghaus Flue (2,618 m1.627 miles
8,589.239 ft
)
Difficulty Rating AD+ AD+ Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1010 m0.628 miles
3,313.648 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2591 m1.61 miles
8,500.656 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)
#8:Topographic detail of the Adlerpass approaches

From Berghaus Flue follow the route to the point where the Findel Glacier and the Adler Glacier once met. Pass S of Pt.3,001m and climb on to the N side of the Adler Glacier via rubble slopes. Keeping on the N bank of the glacier take a direct line to the col, climbing the steep final slopes by an ascending line from left to right (possibly ice) (see photo #8). This approach is quite long and takes up to 5h.

From the pass follow the snow crest and then broken rocks to reach a snow covered terrace which skirts the S flank of the mountain. From the top of the terrace slant up right for 20m on to the E flank of the now less well defined ridge. Climb this flank as direct as possible to a well defined shoulder: avoid wandering to the right side. Difficulties increase towards the top. From the shoulder follow the crest to the fore-summit, turning a pinnacle before you reach this point. Now continue to the summit. Starting from the pass, it takes about 3h to reach the summit.

[edit] North-West Flank

[edit] From Britannia Hut (D)

Rimpfischhorn: North-West Flank from Britannia Hut (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Saas Fee (1,800 m1.118 miles
5,905.512 ft
)
Route Type Snow, 55° (8 h) Hut Britannia Hut (3,030 m1.883 miles
9,940.945 ft
)
Difficulty Rating D D Difficulty Rating F F
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1230 m0.764 miles
4,035.433 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2399 m1.491 miles
7,870.735 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1328: Randa, SLK 1329: Saas (Maps)
#9: Overview of the different routes

From the Britannia Hut, head S and cross the Hohlaub Glacier. Aim to the saddle between the Allalinhorn and a rock hump. From the saddle the path descents a bit to reach the glacier again but stays close to the Allalinhorn wall. Continue on the glacier to the direction of Adlerpass. The glacier is severely crevassed so be careful. When you come to the end of the Allalinhorn E wall you are able to see the Allalinpass. Continue that direction and gain some elevation. Cross the Allalinpass and head SW on the Mellich Glacier. Follow a route so that you can go around the Grand Gendarme rib. Now you merged with the route coming from the Täsch Hut. All the different routes merge and split near this point (see photo #9). Start climbing the glacier combe.

Reach the foot of the face and follow it straight up. The flank is quite steep and reaches 55° maximum. Your climb will bring you to the saddle between the first gendarme on the North Ridge and the summit. In icy conditions, make use of the rocks on the L side. Climb this face early in the season to avoid ice formation. When the slope is snowy, the climb is straightforward. The start of the climb is the hardest part, partly because of bad rock conditions. The higher you get, the better the rock becomes. From the saddle, climb your way up to the real summit.

[edit] From Täsch Hut (D)

Rimpfischhorn: North-West Flank from Täsch Hut (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Täsch, Zermatt
Route Type Snow, 55° (8 h) Hut Täsch Hut (2,702 m1.679 miles
8,864.829 ft
)
Difficulty Rating D D Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1497 m0.93 miles
4,911.417 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt, SLK 1328: Randa (Maps)
#10:View on the NW flank of the Rimpfischhorn

From the Täsch Hut head towards the Allalinpass in a almost straight line. Continue on the Mellich Glacier (watch out for crevasses) and when you almost reach the Allalinpass start heading S and continue almost parallel with the Rimpfisch massif so that you avoid the rib descending from Grand Gendarme. Pass the foot of the rib (3,662m) and enter the glacier combe. Climb the combe by heading SE to reach the Rimpfischsattel.

Reach the foot of the face and follow it straight up. The flank is quite steep and reaches 55° maximum. Your climb will bring you to the saddle between the first gendarme on the North Ridge and the summit. In icy conditions, make use of the rocks on the L side. Climb this face early in the season to avoid ice formation. When the slope is snowy, the climb is straightforward. The start of the climb is the hardest part, partly because of bad rock conditions. The higher you get, the better the rock becomes. From the saddle, climb your way up to the real summit.

[edit] From Berghaus Flue (D)

Rimpfischhorn: North-West Flank from Berghaus Flue (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Rimpfischhorn (4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
)
Valley base(s) Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles
5,275.591 ft
)
Route Type Snow and Rock, 55°, I - II (8 h) Hut Berghaus Flue (2,618 m1.627 miles
8,589.239 ft
)
Difficulty Rating D D Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 1581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1010 m0.628 miles
3,313.648 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2591 m1.61 miles
8,500.656 ft
Useful Maps SLK 1348: Zermatt (Maps)

Normally the North-West Flank is not climbed coming from Berghaus Flue, but it is possible. From Berghaus Flue, head E for about 1 km to small moraine lakes. From here the path goes left up over debris and pasture slopes. This path will bring you to the Pfulwe saddle (3,155m). Traverse to the north of Pfulwe (3,314m) to reach a not very prominent shoulder over a somewhat low snowfield. Make a rising traverse over the NE face and continue on the broad ridge (II & I). Follow this ridge until you reach the snowy West Summit (4,009m) and the Rimpfischsattel (3,985m) beyond.

Descent towards the glacier to reach the foot of the face. Follow the snowy slope straight up. The flank is quite steep and reaches 55° maximum. Your climb will bring you to the saddle between the first gendarme on the North Ridge and the summit. In icy conditions, make use of the rocks on the L side. Climb this face early in the season to avoid ice formation. When the slope is snowy, the climb is straightforward. The start of the climb is the hardest part, partly because of bad rock conditions. The higher you get, the better the rock becomes. From the saddle, climb your way up to the real summit.

[edit] Overview

Route Name Hei. Dif. Dur. (h) Type Rock ° Valley Hut S. Gain Maps
Rimpfischhorn: West-South-West Ridge from Berghaus Flue 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
DPD 5-6 Snow and Rock I-II Zermatt Berghaus Flue 1,581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
1348
Rimpfischhorn: West-South-West Ridge from Täsch Hut 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
EPD+ 6-7 Mostly Snow I-II Täsch, Zermatt Täsch Hut 1,497 m0.93 miles
4,911.417 ft
1348, 1328
Rimpfischhorn: West-South-West Ridge from Britannia Hut 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
EPD+ 6-7 Mostly Snow I-II Saas Fee Britannia Hut 1,169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
1348, 1329, 1328
Rimpfischhorn: North Ridge from Britannia Hut 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
GAD 7 Mostly Rock Saas Fee Britannia Hut 1,169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
1348, 1329, 1328
Rimpfischhorn: North Ridge from Täsch Hut 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
GAD 7 Snow and Rock Täsch, Zermatt Täsch Hut 1,497 m0.93 miles
4,911.417 ft
1348, 1328
Rimpfischhorn: North Ridge from Berghaus Flue 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
GAD 7-8 Snow and Rock Zermatt Berghaus Flue 1,581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
1348, 1328
Rimpfischhorn: South-East Ridge from Britannia Hut 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
HAD+ 6-7 Snow and Rock Saas Fee Britannia Hut 1,169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
1348, 1328, 1329
Rimpfischhorn: South-East Ridge from Berghaus Flue 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
HAD+ 8 Snow and Rock Zermatt Berghaus Flue 1,581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
1348
Rimpfischhorn: North-West Flank from Britannia Hut 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
JD 8 Snow 55 Saas Fee Britannia Hut 1,169 m0.726 miles
3,835.302 ft
1348, 1328, 1329
Rimpfischhorn: North-West Flank from Täsch Hut 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
JD 8 Snow 55 Täsch, Zermatt Täsch Hut 1,497 m0.93 miles
4,911.417 ft
1348, 1328
Rimpfischhorn: North-West Flank from Berghaus Flue 4,199 m2.609 miles
13,776.247 ft
JD 8 Snow and Rock I-II 55 Zermatt Berghaus Flue 1,581 m0.982 miles
5,187.008 ft
1348

Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.

[edit] Multiday suggestions

#11:Cima di Jazzi

There are a number of possible multiday walks. The Rimpfischhorn is located in the middle of the Berghaus Flue-Täsch Hut-Britannia Hut triangle, so there are a lot of options. Some suggestions:

You can combine anything you want, but be aware that climbing the Rimpfischhorn will always be a long journey. So try to make your ascent of the Rimpfischhorn on the first day and a secondary climb the second day or leave early on your first day so you arrive in the hut early and have enough time to regain some energy for your long second day.

Starting from Berghaus Flue is probably always a good idea. From there is the shortest climb to the Rimpfischhorn and you can go to both the Täsch Hut and the Britannia Hut after the ascent. There are a lot of ascents you can do from both these huts. Arriving in Berghaus Flue after you have climbed the Rimpfischhorn is probably not such a good idea because your options are limited. You can go directly to Zermatt, go via the Unterrothorn or via the Oberrothorn-Unterrothorn tandem. From Berghaus Flue you can take an easy route to Cima di Jazzi and return to Zermatt or enter into Italy and descent from the other side to Macugnaga.

Also be aware of the geographical organisation of the region. You will probably have a base camp, be it a tent on a camping, your car parked in a garage or a hotel room. Return to your base camp should be easy. Leaving in Zermatt (via Berghaus Flue) and ending some days later in Täsch is no problem because both towns are in the same valley and are close to each other. The Britannia Hut is situated in the Saas Fee region. It takes a little more time to go back to Zermatt or Täsch when you arrive in Saas Fee or the other way around, but it is still manageable. The 2 valleys are parallel and connected by the same main valley. Going to Macugnaga when your basecamp is in one of the previously mentioned villages is not a good idea, because their is no easy return route via public transportation. You will have to walk back via for example Cima di Jazzi or Schwarzberg Weisstor. Plan your multiday trips decently!

[edit] Additional Photos

Feel free to add some photos

[edit] Recommended Books

      The Alpine 4000m Peaks by the Classic Routes by Richard Goedeke

      Valais Alps East: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Les Swindin

      Valais Alps West: Selected Climbs (Alpine Club Guides) by Lindsay Griffin

      Valais East: Zermatt - Saas - Fiesch (Rother Walking Guide) by Michael Waeber

      Alpine Climbing: Techniques to Take You Higher (Mountaineers Outdoor Expert) by Cathy Cosley

  • You can click the images to get a bigger image of the front cover!
  • We offer you a direct deeplink to Amazon.co.uk or Amazon.de to buy the book. Amazon is the biggest online store in the world and offers a safe environment to buy anything you want.

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