Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group)

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Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group)

Photo of the Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group)
Trifthorn (left) and Obergabelhorn (right), seen from the N.

Elevation 3,728 m12,230.971 ft
2.316 miles
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Weisshorn Group
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DMS Coor. 46°3´5.5"N, 7°40´42"E
Swiss Coor. 618564 / 100031
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Arben Bivouac, Besso, Blanc de Moming, Col Durand, Grand Mountet Hut, Mammouth, Mont Durand, Ober Gabelhorn, Rothorn Hut, Wellenkuppe, Zinal Rothorn
Alpinist's Info
Base(s) Anniviers, Zermatt, Zinal
Hut(s) Grand Mountet Hut, Rothorn Hut
Topo. Map SLK 1327: Evolène
Easiest Route Rating F F
Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group) (Switzerland )
Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group)
Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group)

This page is about the mountain in the Weisshorn Group. For other uses see Trifthorn.


[edit] General information

The Trifthorn (3,728 m12,230.971 ft
2.316 miles
) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in the canton of Valais, Switzerland. It's a popular mountain, climbed frequently from both the Rothorn Hut (Zermatt side) and the Mountet Hut (Zinal side). It makes a good training peak. Parties wishing to cross between the two huts are recommended to traverse this peak rather then cross the Triftjoch which is quite dangerous on the W side.

It is one of those peaks that has a dual personality; from the Zinal (N) side it looks like a genial snow hill while on the Zermatt (S) side there is a menacing rock face. The normal route up from the Rothorn Hut is a simple AD ridge climb with an interesting chimney at its finish. The other normal route from the Mountet Hut is an F snow plod with no time on rock.

The north face is also an interesting option from the Zinal side though it is a little short and low angled for many serious north face aficionados. It does make an excellent beginners route as it short, low angled, has little objective danger, a minor bergshrund and an easy retreat.

The first assent was by W. Béreneck in 1872 from the Zermatt side via the normal route.

[edit] Routes

[edit] South Ridge (AD)

Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group): South Ridge (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group) (3,728 m2.316 miles
12,230.971 ft
Valley base(s) Zermatt (1,608 m0.999 miles
5,275.591 ft
Route Type Snow and Rock (3 h) Hut Rothorn Hut (3,198 m1.987 miles
10,492.126 ft
Difficulty Rating AD AD Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 530 m0.329 miles
1,738.845 ft
    -    Valley - Hut: 1590 m0.988 miles
5,216.535 ft
    -    Valley - Summit: 2120 m1.317 miles
6,955.381 ft
Useful Maps Template:Xxxx (Maps)

From the Rothorn Hut climb NW up the glacier combe until a little way short of the rock wall below Pt. 3,658 m and Pt. 3,790 m. Turn SW and follow this line until you see the snowy couloir leading to the Triftjoch. Climb the couloir, taking to the rocks on the R (N) side towards the top. From the col follow the crest of the ridge all the wat except for a step at about mid-height which is climbed by a chimney on the Mountet side. This is an enjoyable climb in a fine situation. Keep to the crest of the ridge for the best rock.

[edit] North-East Ridge (PD)

Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group): North-East Ridge (edit infobox)
Summit Approach
Summit Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group) (3,728 m2.316 miles
12,230.971 ft
Valley base(s) Anniviers, Zinal
Route Type Snow (2.5 - 3 h) Hut Grand Mountet Hut (2,886 m1.793 miles
9,468.504 ft
Difficulty Rating F F Difficulty W1
Height Gains Hut - Summit: 842 m0.523 miles
2,762.467 ft
Useful Maps Template:Xxxx (Maps)

From the Mountet Hut follow a slightly rising path to the moraine of the Mountet Glacier. Climb the moraine to the first cairn and then slant down a poor path to the glacier. Take as direct a line as possible to the Col du Mountet (Pt. 3,658 m) avoiding crevasses as necessary (usually a trail). The steep section below the col is turned on the R. From the col climb the ridge in a few min to the summit. The ridge itself is very short and entirely snow, falling to the Col du Mountet. Any difficulties encountered will be on the glacier approach to this col.

[edit] Overview

Route Name Hei. Dif. Dur. (h) Type Rock ° Valley Hut S. Gain Maps
Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group): South Ridge 3,728 m2.316 miles
12,230.971 ft
GAD 3 Snow and Rock Zermatt Rothorn Hut 530 m0.329 miles
1,738.845 ft
Trifthorn (Weisshorn Group): North-East Ridge 3,728 m2.316 miles
12,230.971 ft
BF 2.5-3 Snow Anniviers, Zinal Grand Mountet Hut 842 m0.523 miles
2,762.467 ft

Hei.:Height, Dif.: Difficulty, Dur.: Duration, S. Gain: Meters from hut to summit
Summit map is always listed first. If a map is used for 2 km and another map for 1 km, the 2 km map will be listed before the 1 km map. Overview of the Swiss maps & Italian maps.

[edit] Additional Photos

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