Weissmies

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Weissmies

Photo of the Weissmies
Summit approach from Hohsaas (SW ridge)

General
Elevation 4,023 m13,198.819 ft
2.5 miles
Prominence 1,191 m0.74 miles
3,907.48 ft
Location Valais, Switzerland
Range Pennine Alps
Massif Weissmies Group
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Coordinates
DMS Coor. 46°7´40"N, 8°0´43"E
Swiss Coor. 644312 / 108638
Links Topographic Detail

Coordinates Information

Nearby Features
Almageller Hut, Hohsaas Hut, Weissmies Hut, Zwischbergenpass
Alpinist's Info
Topo. Map SLK 1329: Saas
Easiest Route Rating PD PD
Map
Weissmies (Switzerland )
Weissmies
Weissmies
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Contents

[edit] General information

The Weissmies (4,023 m13,198.819 ft
2.5 miles
) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in the canton of Valais in Switzerland near the village of Saas-Fee. It is the westernmost four-thousander of its range.

The Weissmies is located on the main chain of the Alps, on a massif separating the Saastal valley on the west and Simplon valley on the east. The massif consists of two other main summits lying to the north at almost the same altitude, the Lagginhorn and Fletschhorn. The mountain lies between the Lagginjoch () to the north and the Zwischbergen Pass () to the south.

The Weissmies is one of the 10 four-thousanders surrounding the Saastal, facing the Dom on the west, the third highest summit of the Alps.

[edit] History

It was first climbed by Jakob Christian Häusser and Peter Josef Zurbriggen in 1855 via the Triftgrat. The ascent was mired in some controversy as the local guides did not believe that the peak could be ascended without their help; when they themselves ascended to the summit by following Häusser and Zurbriggen's footprints, they found that the highest point had indeed been reached.

The east face was climbed first by J. A. Peebles, Mr and Mrs E. P. Jackson with guides P. Schlegel, U. Rubi and J. Martin on 17 October 1876.

The more difficult south face was climbed in 1884 by C. H. Wilson, A. Burgener, J. Furrer.

Two weeks later, W. H. and E. Paine with T. Andenmatten and P. Zurbriggen opened a route on the northern ridge.

The approach to the Trift Glacier/south-west ridge (Triftgrat) route can now be made via lift to Hohsaas (3,100 m), which is located virtually at the edge of the glacier.

[edit] Routes

The ascent from Hohsaas takes about 4 hours and involves slopes to 40 degrees and crevasses. An other route start from the Zwischbergen Pass (above Almageller Hut) at the foot of the southern ridge.

[edit] Additional photos

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