From Mount Wiki
|Elevation|| 4,023 m13,198.819 ft |
|Prominence|| 1,191 m0.74 miles |
|DMS Coor.||46°7´40"N, 8°0´43"E|
|Swiss Coor.||644312 / 108638|
|Links|| Topographic Detail |
 General information
The Weissmies (4,023 m13,198.819 ft
2.5 miles) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps in the canton of Valais in Switzerland near the village of Saas-Fee. It is the westernmost four-thousander of its range.
The Weissmies is located on the main chain of the Alps, on a massif separating the Saastal valley on the west and Simplon valley on the east. The massif consists of two other main summits lying to the north at almost the same altitude, the Lagginhorn and Fletschhorn. The mountain lies between the Lagginjoch () to the north and the Zwischbergen Pass () to the south.
It was first climbed by Jakob Christian Häusser and Peter Josef Zurbriggen in 1855 via the Triftgrat. The ascent was mired in some controversy as the local guides did not believe that the peak could be ascended without their help; when they themselves ascended to the summit by following Häusser and Zurbriggen's footprints, they found that the highest point had indeed been reached.
The east face was climbed first by J. A. Peebles, Mr and Mrs E. P. Jackson with guides P. Schlegel, U. Rubi and J. Martin on 17 October 1876.
The more difficult south face was climbed in 1884 by C. H. Wilson, A. Burgener, J. Furrer.
Two weeks later, W. H. and E. Paine with T. Andenmatten and P. Zurbriggen opened a route on the northern ridge.
The approach to the Trift Glacier/south-west ridge (Triftgrat) route can now be made via lift to Hohsaas (3,100 m), which is located virtually at the edge of the glacier.